THE CIETA TECHNICAL COURSES

Since 1956, the CIETA has offered specialists Technical Courses that provide theoretical knowledge and practical experience, often with reference to the samples analysed during the courses, and that enable the independent study of historical fabrics. The techniques learned during the courses given at the Musée des Tissus et des Arts Décoratifs in Lyon have become a benchmark for the analysis of historical textiles, specifically historical silks, and the vocabulary referring to them.

Recently, the course programme has been reorganized to appeal not only to specialists in the field, but also to a public interested in learning about the rich heritage of historical silks.

The new programme is divided into three Technical Courses. The programme draws on the wealth of the museum’s collections and the CIETA’s Tissuthèque (study collection) for case studies.

The courses are eligible for OPCO funding thanks to a partnership with the training organisation Maya Campus.

OBJECTIVES AND METHODS OF THE CIETA TECHNICAL COURSES

Knowledge of historical textile weaving techniques is the basis for studying our textile heritage, enriching one’s technical and cultural understanding, as well as the challenges of contemporary creation on a craft or industrial scale.

The courses will enable you to:

• Learn to identify fibres (natural, artificial and synthetic),
• Acquire a method of textile analysis developed by the CIETA,
• Become familiar with the technical terms used to identify all the weaving processes and historical textiles defined in the CIETA vocabulary,
• Recognize the main weave structures, from the simplest to the most complex, and represent them using technical drawings

Theoretical teaching is accompanied by practical exercises:

• Discovery of weaving techniques,
• Study of examples from the museum’s collection,
• Analysis of samples provided during the courses, including many reproductions of historical textiles from the CIETA’s study collection,
• Visits to workshops and textile manufacturers, to meet professionals in the field and learn from their experience.

TECHNICAL COURSE I

Basic knowledge for the identification of historic textiles

This 6-day course (48 hours), made up of two 3-day modules (24 hours each), provides an introduction to fabric identification through the study of all the basic fibres and weaves.

TC1 – Module 1 (3 days – 24h)

Textile fibres and yarns, weaving and decorating processes

• Identification of textile fibres and textile yarns
• Dyes and their processes
• Study of pre- and post-weaving decorative techniques
• Understanding the operation of heddle looms and the manufacture of plain textiles
• Discussing the reproduction of historical textiles

TC1 – Module 2 (3 days – 24h)

The CIETA method and textile analysis – Plain weaves

• Mastering the CIETA textile analysis method
• Understand the twill weave and its simple variants
• Understand regular and irregular satins

Included in Technical Course I

Visit to a manufacturer near Lyon, discovery of historical textiles from the collections of the Musée des Tissus et des Arts Décoratifs, study of samples from the CIETA‘s study collection.

Learning outcomes

• Distinguish between warp and weft, fibres, yarns, and thread twists
• Recognize textile decorating techniques
• Weave the three basic weaves on a four-shaft and eight-shaft loom
• Using textile analysis, identify the weaves structure: tabby and its variants, taffeta, gros de Tours, louisine, cannelé, natté, twills, chevron twills (warp and weft direction), lozenge twill, regular and irregular satin, etc.

TECHNICAL COURSE II

Advanced knowledge for the study of historical textiles

This 6-day course (48 hours) enables you to deepen your knowledge by studying single-warp fabrics and complex weaves, and to understand the loom and how it works.

Prerequisites for Technical Course II: Completion of Technical Course I (Basic knowledge of historical textile identification) or CIETA training courses before 2024.

TC II – Module 1 (3 days – 24h)

Complex single warp weaves

• Identifying fabrics with one warp and one weft
• Identifying fabrics with one warp and two or more wefts
• Small pattern-weaves produced on a shaft-loom

TC II – Module 2 (3 days – 24h)

Weaving systems – Complex two-warp weaves

• Pattern looms (Drawloom and Jacquard)
• Weave structures with two warp systems
• Weave structures with two warp systems, including ground and pile

Included in Technical Course II

Visit to a manufacturer near Lyon, discovery of historical textiles from the collections of the Musée des Tissus et des Arts Décoratifs, study of samples from the CIETA’s study collection.

Learning outcomes

• Identify weaves through textile analysis: cannelé, double-faced weave, weft-pile weave, liseré, lancé, and brocading wefts, faille française, double cloth, pékin, cannelé simpleté, cannetillé, flushing warp weave, etc.
• Recognize the components of weaving looms for patterned fabrics

TECHNICAL COURSE III

Identifying complex weaves in historical textiles

This 6-day course (48 hours) will enable the participants to increase their understanding of historical ailks by studying the complex weave structures and patterns characteristic of these textiles.

Prerequisites for Technical Course III: Completion of Technical Courses I (Basic knowledge for the identification of historical textiles) and II (Advanced knowledge for the study of historical textiles) or CIETA courses before 2024.

TC III – Module 1 (3 days – 24h)

Single weave fabrics

• Weft-faced compound tabbies (taquetés) and weft-faced compound twills (samits)
• Damasks
• Complex fabrics with shifting warp threads

TC III – Module 2 (3 days – 24h)

Complex weaves and velvets

• Complex woven fabrics with two warps and additional wefts: lampas
• Complex patterns with two warps and additional wefts: brocatelles, droguets and dauphines
• Velvets

Included in Technical Course III

Visit to a manufacturer near Lyon, discovery of historical textiles from the collections of the Musée des Tissus et des Arts Décoratifs, study of samples from the CIETA’s study collection.

Learning outcomes

• Identify complex weaves through textile analysis: weft-faced compound tabby (taqueté) and weft-faced compound twill (samite), damask, lampassette, gauzes, lampas, brocatelle, droguet and dauphine, plain and patterned velvets
• Recognize the components of weaving looms for patterned fabrics.

WHO CAN PARTICIPATE IN THE CIETA COURSES?

Professionals and students in the textile sector

Museum curators, conservators, curatorial assistants, museum collection managers, archivists, managers of public or private collections, students of art history and conservation (Masters and PhD level), experts and professionals in the art market and in arts and crafts, professionals and craftspersons in the fields of textiles, furniture, fashion or stage costume industries.

A good oral and written comprehension of French is recommended.

For English speakers, supporting documents are provided in English upon request.

Assessment and validation procedures

Assessed on the basis of practical exercises and the understanding achieved, a certificate of qualification is awarded to students at the end of each Technical Course.

CIETA’s technical secretary provides occasional support to English-speaking participants, translating essential concepts or clarifying technical points.

Equipment required

• A thread-counter (minimum 1cm graduated window) – can be purchased from the museum
• Two micro probes – can be purchased at the registration stage
• Embroidery scissors
• Sheets of paper, small squares 5×5 mm
• Crayons
• Lighter

RATES PER TECHNICAL COURSE (6 days – 48 hours)

• CIETA member (proof of membership required): €1,340
• Non-members of the CIETA: €1,740
• Students or jobseekers in France (proof to be provided: copy of student ID or France Travail status notice less than 6 months old)
• For all administrative questions, please visit: entreprise@maya-campus.fr

General Calendar of CIETA Technical Courses

Technical Course I in February

Technical Course II in June

Technical Course III – 1st half of September every two years

The next Technical Courses I will be held (with 14 participants each) on

• 5, 6, 7 and 10, 11, 12 June 2024
• 5, 6, 7 and 10, 11, 12 February 2025

The next Technical Courses II will be held (with 12 participants each)

• 4, 5, 6 and 9, 10, 11 September 2024
• 11, 12, 13 and 16, 17, 18 June 2025

The next Technical Course III will be held (with 12 participants)

• 3, 4, 5 and 8, 9, 10 September 2025