THE CIETA TECHNICAL COURSES

Since 1956, the CIETA has offered specialists the Technical Courses that allow them, with practice and possibly with reference to the samples analysed during the courses, to pursue the study of historic fabrics on their own. The courses given at the Musée des Tissus et des Arts Décoratifs in Lyon have become a benchmark for the analysis of ancient textiles and the vocabulary referring to them.

Recently, the course programme has been reorganized to appeal not only to specialists in the field, but also to a public interested in learning about the rich heritage of historic silks.

The new programme is divided into three Technical Courses. The programme draws on the wealth of the museum’s collections and the CIETA’s Tissuthèque (study collection) for case studies.

The courses are eligible for OPCO funding thanks to a partnership with the training organisation Maya Campus.

OBJECTIVES AND METHODS OF THE CIETA TECHNICAL COURSES

Knowledge of historic textile weaving techniques is the basis for studying textile heritage, enriching one’s culture and knowledge, as well as understanding the challenges of contemporary creation on a craft or industrial scale.

The courses will enable you to:

• Learn to identify fibres (natural, artificial and synthetic),
• Acquire a method of textile analysis developed by the CIETA,
• Become familiar with the technical terms used to identify all the weaving processes and historic textiles defined in the CIETA vocabulary,
• Recognize the main weave structures, from the simplest to the most complex, and represent them using technical drawings

Theoretical teaching is accompanied by practical exercises:

• Discovery of weaving techniques,
• Study of pieces from the museum’s collection,
• Analysis of samples provided during the courses, including many reweavings of historic textiles from the CIETA’s study collection,
• Visits to workshops and textile companies, to meet professionals in the field and learn from their know-how.

TECHNICAL COURSE I

Basic knowledge for the identification of historic textiles

This 6-day course (48 hours), made up of two 3-day modules (24 hours each), provides an introduction to fabric identification through the study of all the basic fibres and weaves.

TC1 – Module 1 (3 days – 24h)

Textile materials, weaving and decorating processes

• Identification of yarns and textile materials
• Dyes and their processes
• Study of pre- and post-weaving decorating techniques
• Understanding the operation of heddle looms and the manufacture of plain textiles
• Discussing the reproduction of historic textiles

TC1 – Module 2 (3 days – 24h)

The CIETA method and textile analysis – Plain weaves

• Mastering the CIETA textile analysis method
• Know the twill weave and its simple derivatives
• Know regular and irregular satins

Included in Technical Course I

Visit to a company near Lyon, discovery of pieces from the collections of the Musée des Tissus et des Arts Décoratifs, study of samples from the CIETA‘s study collection.

Learning outcomes

• Distinguish between warp and weft, materials and thread twists
• Recognize textile decorating techniques
• Weave the three basic weaves on a four-shaft and eight-shaft loom
• Using textile analysis, identify the weaves: toile and its derivatives, taffeta, Gros de Tours, louisine, cannelé, natté, twill and compound twill, herringbone warp and weft, diamond, regular and irregular satin, etc.

TECHNICAL COURSE II

Advanced knowledge for the study of historic textiles

This 6-day course (48 hours) enables you to deepen your knowledge by studying single-warp fabrics and complex weaves, and to understand how looms work for woven fabrics.

Prerequisites for Technical Course II: Completion of Technical Course I (Basic knowledge of historic textile identification) or CIETA training courses before 2024.

TC II – Module 1 (3 days – 24h)

Complex single warp weaves

• Identifying fabrics with one warp and one weft
• Identifying fabrics with one warp and two or more wefts
• Small pattern-weaves produced on a shaft-loom

TC II – Module 2 (3 days – 24h)

Weaving systems – Complex two-warp weaves

• Pattern looms (Draw- and Jacquard)
• Two warp fabrics
• Two warp fabrics, with ground and pile

Included in Technical Course II

Visit to a company near Lyon, discovery of pieces from the collections of the Musée des Tissus et des Arts Décoratifs, study of samples from the CIETA’s study collection.

Learning outcomes

• Identify weaves through textile analysis: fluted and alternative reps, double-face weft, velvet by weft, edged, thrown and brocaded wefts, faille, double face, double cloth, pekin, simpleté fluted, fluted, trailing pile, etc.
• Recognize the components of weaving looms for shaped fabrics

TECHNICAL COURSE III

Identifying complex weaves in historic textiles

This 6-day course (48 hours) will enable the participants to specialize in the knowledge of historic fabrics by studying the complex weave structures and patterns characteristic of these textiles.

Prerequisites for Technical Course III: Completion of Technical Courses I (Basic knowledge for the identification of historic textiles) and II (Advanced knowledge for the study of historic textiles) or CIETA courses before 2024.

TC III – Module 1 (3 days – 24h)

Single weave fabrics

• Taquetés and samits
• Damasks
• Complex fabrics with turning yarns

TC III – Module 2 (3 days – 24h)

Complex shapes and velvets

• Complex woven fabrics with warps and additional wefts: lampas
• Complex patterns with warps and additional wefts: brocatelles, droguets and dauphines
• Velvets

Included in Technical Course III

Visit to a company near Lyon, discovery of pieces from the collections of the Musée des Tissus et des Arts Décoratifs, study of samples from the CIETA’s study collection.

Learning outcomes

• Identify complex weaves through textile analysis: taqueté and samit, damask, lampassette, gauze, lampas, brocatelle, droguet and dauphine, plain and patterned velvet,
• Recognize the components of weaving looms for shaped fabrics.

WHO CAN PARTICIPATE IN THE CIETA COURSES?

Professionals and students in the textile sector

Museum curators, conservators, curatorial assistants, museum collection managers, archivists, managers of public or private collections, students of art history and conservation (Masters and PhD level), experts and professionals in the art market and in arts and crafts, professionals and craftspersons in the fields of textiles, furniture, fashion or stage costume industries.

A good oral and written comprehension of French is essential.

For English speakers, supporting documents are provided in English upon request.

Assessment and validation procedures

Assessed on the basis of practical exercises and role-playing, a certificate of qualification is awarded to trainees at the end of each Technical Course.

CIETA’s technical secretary provides occasional support to English-speaking participants, translating essential concepts or clarifying technical points.

Equipment required

• A thread-count (minimum 1cm graduated window) – can be purchased from the museum
• Two decomposing tacks – can be purchased at the registration stage
• Embroidery scissors
• Sheets of paper, small squares 5×5 mm
• Crayons
• Lighter

RATES PER TECHNICAL COURSE (6 days – 48 hours)

• CIETA member (proof of membership required): €1,340
• General public: €1,740
• Students or jobseekers (proof to be provided: copy of student card or France Travail status notice less than 6 months old)
• For all administrative questions, please visit: entreprise@maya-campus.fr

General Calendar of CIETA Technical Courses

Technical Course I in February

Technical Course II in June

Technical Course III – 1st half of September every two years

The next Technical Courses I will be held (with 14 participants each) on

• 5, 6, 7 and 10, 11, 12 June 2024
• 5, 6, 7 and 10, 11, 12 February 2025

The next Technical Courses II will be held (with 12 participants each)

• 4, 5, 6 and 9, 10, 11 September 2024
• 11, 12, 13 and 16, 17, 18 June 2025

The next Technical Course III will be held (with 12 participants)

• 3, 4, 5 and 8, 9, 10 September 2025